This trip report is by client Leslie Barlow from our 08/24 Donegal and Causeway Coast workshop.
The coastal areas of Donegal and Northern Ireland are spectacular, with stunning views, sea stacks, and tall cliffs. This workshop, however, included so much more. It was an adventure.
Our group consisted of six attendees of various skill levels and three guides — David, Bernard, and Marcus. I was the most inexperienced of the group, on the trip with my husband Glenn I came mostly to see Ireland and maybe snap a few pics. I was there to see this beautiful country, just as happy shooting behind the scenes with my iPhone as I was using my camera. You don’t have to be an avid photographer to enjoy this workshop; there is just so much to see.
Although we arrived a day earlier, staying in a city center hotel (highly recommended to overcome jet lag), day 1 of the trip started mid-morning in Dublin. After quick introductions, we loaded into two comfortable vans and headed three hours north to our hotel in Donegal. Bernard, one of our pros and our local guide, is an Irishman with a wicked sense of humor, full of stories and answers to all of our questions regarding his homeland. He is an entertainer as much as he is a guide and photography pro.
The hotel was comfortable, welcoming, and centrally located to our days in Donegal. We arrived in plenty of time to get settled and have an early dinner before heading out for our sunset shoot at Bloody Foreland. The coastline was beautiful and surprisingly peaceful, with no sign of any other people for miles.
Day 2 started with a predawn drive, arriving before sunrise at Fanad Lighthouse, followed later by sunset at Marble Arch. Both locations were stunning! Between was a mid-afternoon image review and critique at the hotel. Being a new photographer, it was interesting to hear David, Marcus, and Bernard’s perspectives on the images submitted. I learned a lot.
Day 3, brought a change in weather with rain and overcast skies overnight and into the early morning, eliminating a sunrise shoot. Thankfully, the weather cleared quickly, allowing us to take the mid-morning 45-minute ferry to Tory Island. The island, with a population of 140, is about 8 miles off the northwest coast of County Donegal, approximately 2 ½ miles long and ¾ mile wide. Its Irish name is Toraigh, which means “place of steep rocky heights.” It couldn’t be more aptly named.
Our group spent most of the day there, photographing the seascapes with its steep cliffs and sea stacks. We were rewarded with a spectacular view of Balor’s Fort at the far easterly end of the island, surrounded by ocean on three sides and 300’ vertical sea cliffs. We all got our steps in this day, none of them overly difficult, there was just so much to see.
David, Barnard, and Marcus were always available to answer questions and offer suggestions, as well as ensuring no one toppled off the edge! I’m so thankful weather conditions allowed us to visit this beautiful, rugged island.
On day 4, the weather once again didn’t cooperate for a sunrise shoot. After breakfast, we headed out to Dunlewey Church of Ireland, built in 1848 and now in ruins. The wet, slightly foggy conditions made for interesting photos.
Later in the afternoon we drove to a ruin of a different sort, the remains of the Bad Eddie boat wreck, only fully visible at low tide, where I learned about shooting in monochrome. The wrecked wooden sailboat made for great black-and-white images. My husband, Glenn, said what initially looked boring turned into one of his favorite images. Meanwhile, I had an open beach to walk on and more rocks to climb!
The next stop was the base of Errigal Mountain, at 2,465 feet, it is the tallest peak of the Derryveagh Mountains. The winding road added foreground interest to the mountain, allowing us to experiment with compositions. We finished the day with sunset shoot at Crohy Arch. It was here Glenn captured one of his favorite photos of the trip, as I’m sure did the rest of the group. We always knew it was a good opportunity whenever Marcus took out his film camera.
Day 5 was goodbye Donegal and on to Giants Causeway, about a 4-hour drive. The countryside is breathtaking, especially along the narrow, winding country roads that we’ve taken most of this trip. The roads are lined with hedges, and the rolling hills of the countryside are beautiful. Hedgerows or stacked stone fencing divide the properties with fields of wheat and sheep in abundance. Small, neat cottages are scattered throughout the countryside. Primarily white and of similar design, most have flowers in window boxes or hanging baskets. Some of the cottages have brightly painted doors of red, yellow and blue, providing a little extra character. It’s easy to concentrate only on the big photo opportunities, but the beauty of the Irish countryside is spectacular!
We arrived at our hotel in the early afternoon, the rooms were ready, and we randomly chose a key from David’s outstretched hand. The hotel was built in 1836. Still, the rooms were comfortable. The staff was friendly, the food at a nearby restaurant was great, and the location was amazing!
Sunset shoot at Giant’s Causeway, about a 5-minute drive down a steep road from the hotel. The pillar-like structures, called columnar basalt, were formed by volcanic activity 50 to 60 million years ago. The size of the columns was determined by the speed at which the lava cooled. Absolutely amazing to see and climb! I’m more a wanderer than photographer. While I’m sure the other photographers captured amazing images, I instead enjoyed exploring the area, climbing about the rocks, and watching the sunset. Glenn frequently played “Where’s Waldo” trying to find me. It may be Giants Causeway, but for me, it was Leslie’s playground.
Day 6. A full day at varied locations. Sunrise at Port Moon Bothy, followed by an opportunity to photograph the ruins at Dunsevrick Castle before proceeding to Wishing Arch and ending the day with sunset at Dunluce Castle.
Of course, there was always ample downtime back at the hotel or a break at local coffee shops. Lucky for us, Bernard knew all the best places. The group’s favorite was Bothy Coffee. The atmosphere, coffee, soup, sandwiches, and bakery items were exceptional.
Speaking of the group, looking at us, you would think we had little in common, but everyone easily got along, sharing stories and experiences. As an added bonus, we were a timely group. Everyone was consistently a few minutes early, so we never had to wait on anyone! The combination of Bernard’s ongoing hilarious monologues, Marcus’ dry wit at the most opportune times, and David’s subtle deadpan one-liners made the trip that much more fun.
Day 7, a sunrise shoot at Dark Hedges. This was one of the few times we experienced other photographers at our same location. Our group arrived early, waiting for the light to be just right. A large tourist group arrived soon after, things could have easily gotten a bit out of control. Bernard was great, identifying their group leader and proposing a solution that worked for all. They could take their shots first, as they really only wanted multiple Instagram poses, when the light was right, they would clear the area and allow us to shoot. When Bernard said that the time was now, the tourists nicely moved aside and watched our tripod-mounted cameras click away.
This worked out brilliantly. We had the best light while they were happy with their time in the spotlight. Afterward, we took our group shot (after Bernard set it up, the tourist group leader snapped the shutter for us). We packed up just as this famous location used in Game of Thrones started becoming more crowded. This was the perfect solution and perfect light on The Dark Hedges.
The rest of the day was spent back at the hotel along with the opportunity for another photo critique. The weather was exceptional, warm, sunny and not a cloud in the sky. Perhaps not perfect from a photographer’s point of view but it gave everyone a relaxing afternoon. I enjoyed exploring the coastal trails, absolutely breathtaking!
Our final sunset shoot was once again at Giants Causeway. The conditions were so different from the previous night it created a completely new photo opportunity. The sunset bouncing off the rocks was so amazing even I sat behind my tripod taking photos, with Bernard and Marcus offering help and suggestions. Below is Glenn’s photo, taken while Bernard was running about singing “Epic Sunset.”
On day 8, after breakfast, we bid farewell to Giants Causeway, packing up and heading a few minutes down the road to our Bothy Coffee shop for one last visit. We left Northern Ireland, heading to Portmarnack in the Republic of Ireland, several hours south.
The hotel is a short walk from the beach, the weather was perfect for an afternoon walk on the beach.
We later drove a short way to the seaside village of Howth for our last group dinner, concluding the workshop. While we were given the option of having a sunset shoot at Howth Lighthouse, there wasn’t a cloud in the sky, so chances of a dramatic sunset were slim. Everyone opted to leave their gear at the hotel and enjoy our last dinner together, ending with a nice walk along the pier out to the lighthouse.
This trip far exceeded my expectations: great guides, a nice group, and beautiful, picturesque Ireland.
— Leslie Barlow
